Taking The Trans-Mongolian Train – Your Introduction
First things first: take off your watch. This isn’t high-speed rail—it’s time to embrace the pace of the land. So, what can you expect when travelling on the Trans-Mongolian? The Trans-Mongolian Railway connects Beijing with Ulaanbaatar before continuing on to Ulan-Ude, where it joins the legendary Trans-Siberian line. It’s a journey that spans stark contrasts […]
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First things first: take off your watch. This isn’t high-speed rail—it’s time to embrace the pace of the land. So, what can you expect when travelling on the Trans-Mongolian?
The Trans-Mongolian Railway connects Beijing with Ulaanbaatar before continuing on to Ulan-Ude, where it joins the legendary Trans-Siberian line. It’s a journey that spans stark contrasts and shifting landscapes. South of Ulaanbaatar, the train rolls across the vast, empty expanse of the Gobi Desert—keep an eye out for white-tailed gazelle darting across the steppe. North of the capital, the route winds through Selenge Aimag, named after the mighty Selenge River—Mongolia’s principal waterway. Here, the scenery changes dramatically to lush river valleys, forest-steppe, and fertile farmland.
Along the way, don’t miss the chance to sample Mongolian buuz (steamed dumplings) or khuurshuur (fried meat pastries), often sold by platform vendors. Or join local passengers in a rolling picnic of salami, gherkins, and the ever-present vodka—shared generously with strangers who become companions.
As our guest Ross Briggs put it:
‘The train trip is quite relaxing. I spent most of my time looking out both sides at the endless Gobi views, often flat from horizon to horizon. As I have said before, I do not tire of these views and the enormity of the countryside. The weather was very good which enabled us to see a last spectacular sunset over the Gobi. The train trip was a good way to leave Mongolia, something new to experience and I would not discourage people from taking the trip.’
The Trans-Mongolian Railway spans 1,110 km across Mongolia, following a historic trade route once used by tea-carrying camel caravans. Constructed in stages between 1949 and 1961, its development reflected the shifting political tides between Russia and China. In terms of infrastructure, the line is primarily single track within Mongolia, while it becomes double track once it crosses into China—details for those who like to know the nuts and bolts of the journey.
‘The Trans-Siberian Railway is a regular railway, a means of transport vital to the people living along it. It’s not run for tourists, so you won’t find bar cars with pianos or deluxe suites with en suite showers. However, all passengers get a proper flat berth to sleep in, provided with all necessary bedding, convertible to a seat for day use. There are washrooms and toilets along the corridor, and a restaurant car for meals.’ Man In Seat 61
K24 | Ulaanbaatar to Beijing
For those of you who love train travel, we’ve got good news. The international route between Beijing and Ulaanbaatar is open again. The K24 train now runs every Thursday. While it’s not the full Trans-Siberian route, it offers a taste of that legendary journey.
The train is operated by Mongolian Railways one year and Chinese Railways the next. There’s not a huge difference, though you may notice a change in service style and slight variations in ticket options. Expect a mix of two- and four-bed berths, as well as soft sleeper compartments.
Other international departures to China include trains to Jining and Hohhot (both twice a week), and to Erlian (four times a week). Get in touch if you would like help booking tickets!
Top Tip – Pick your season
As The Man in Seat 61 reminds us: “The Trans-Siberian Railway is a regular railway, a means of transport vital to the people living along it.” That means trains run year-round, not just for tourists, but for locals going about their daily lives.
While summer is the most popular time to travel—thanks to long daylight hours and warmer temperatures—it’s also the busiest. Expect more international travellers and tour groups. If you’re looking for a quieter, more atmospheric journey, consider travelling in winter. The landscapes take on a stark beauty and you’ll get a more intimate glimpse into local life, minus all the other international travellers.
Top Tip – It’s all in the train numbers
The train number reveals more than you might think—it’s a handy indicator of speed, quality, and price. In general, the lower the number, the faster and more modern the train. Slower, more basic trains tend to have three-digit numbers. While these may be less polished, they still offer a reasonable level of comfort and a more local travel experience.
If you’re travelling into Mongolia on one of the international services, keep in mind that border crossings—particularly between China and Mongolia or Mongolia and Russia—can take time. Expect delays as passports are checked, tracks are changed, and wheels are swapped to match different rail gauges. It’s all part of the adventure.
High numbers for a local train! The local Sainshand to Erdenet train captured by our guest Séverine Baptiste-Blanchart
Top Tip – Food
Nearly all Trans-Mongolian trains are equipped with a samovar—a large boiler providing unlimited hot water—located at the end of each carriage. It’s free to use, so be sure to bring a sturdy mug and some cutlery (personally, I’m a fan of the trusty Spork!).
Instant noodles, soups, tea, and coffee are all excellent essentials to pack. They provide a comforting alternative to the standard dining carriage fare, which on Mongolian trains often features rice and mutton. You might also consider packing snacks like granola bars, crackers, trail mix, peanut butter, dried meat, and dried fruit—easy to prepare, easy to share.
As The Man in Seat 61 puts it:
‘My personal favourite is water-based drinking chocolate for a relaxing night-time drink each evening…’
Top Tip – Power Sockets
Power sockets are limited—certainly fewer than you’ll hope for when sharing a carriage with dozens of fellow travellers, all eager to charge their phones, cameras, or tablets. Some sockets may be located in the corridor, others in your compartment, and availability can vary depending on the train.
If you’re travelling the full route from Beijing to Moscow, it’s essential to bring a universal travel adaptor, as socket types and voltages can change across borders. A small power bank can also be a lifesaver for keeping your devices going between charges.
As The Man in Seat 61 says:
‘All Russian, Mongolian & Chinese trains have shaver sockets in the corridor and washrooms which can be used to recharge things with the right adaptor. Some trains have one or two similar sockets in the corridor that can be used to recharge things if you keep an eye on them. Your carriage attendant may be willing to charge items using the socket in their own compartment, for a small tip.’
Top Tip – Trans Mongolian Handbook
The views are vast and unforgettable—but if you think you’ll want something to accompany the scenery (or give your eyes a break from the endless horizon), pack a copy of The Trans-Siberian Handbook by Bryn Thomas.
It includes a detailed mile-by-mile guide to the route, helping you spot landmarks, understand the history of the places you’re passing, and deepen your connection to the journey. Part guidebook, part travel companion—it’s a classic for a reason.
Image by our guest Séverine Baptiste-Blanchart
Top Tip – Showers and Toilets
Let’s be clear: there are no proper showers on most Trans-Mongolian trains. That said, if you’re travelling first class (2-berth) on Train 3 or 4—the international service between Moscow and Beijing—you’re in luck. Each pair of compartments shares a small private washroom with a basic shower. But don’t expect a power shower—it’s more of a thin hose than a spa experience.
For everyone else, it’s time to embrace the art of the train mini-shower. Just grab some hot water from the samovar, bring your mug, and freshen up in one of the lockable toilets.
Each carriage typically has two western-style toilets, one at either end, each with a sink. The level of cleanliness depends a lot on the carriage attendants (provodniks), but they’re often better maintained than you might expect—not spotless, but rarely dreadful.
Toilet paper should be provided… but always bring your own. Just in case.
‘The rail journey from Beijing was twenty seven hours through first, tree covered hills, then the industrial plains of Inner Mongolia before reaching the China/Mongolia border at 10pm. Here we waited for three hours while our papers were checked and the wheels on each carriage changed to fit the smaller tracks of Mongolia. Evidently the change of track gauge is to protect national borders, trains loaded with troops and artillery could not force their way through border control. We arrived in Ulaanbaatar in the early afternoon. It is an old city yet has a feel of impermanence. Things change regularly, and the dust of the desert blows through the Main Street. There is a sensation of being at a frontier. Buddhism and Shamanism are the belief systems of the country. The big blue sky, the land and the spirits being the focus for respect and devotion.’ Words by our guest Sovay Berriman and image by our guest Séverine Baptiste-Blanchart
Top Tip – Hop-On, Hop-Off It Is Not
Spontaneity has its place—but not on the Trans-Siberian or its extensions. You can’t just hop on and off as the mood takes you. Every train journey requires a reserved berth, and tickets—especially for summer travel—sell out quickly. The lower-numbered, faster trains go first, and even slower services can book up fast, especially if you have a preference for a lower bunk.
That said, you can break up your journey. If you want to stop and explore along the way, you’ll need to plan in advance and buy separate tickets for each leg of the route. And don’t forget: visas are a key part of the puzzle. Depending on your itinerary, you may need multiple visas, and each requires careful timing and planning.
Top Tip – Train Clothes Are a Thing
It might surprise you, but there is a dress code of sorts for long-distance train travel in this part of the world. Once on board, many passengers slip into “train clothes”—think pyjamas, tracksuits, or loungewear, paired with slippers or indoor shoes. It’s all about comfort and cleanliness, especially when you’ll be sharing a small space for days at a time.
A quick etiquette tip: never sit on someone else’s bunk (especially their bedding) in your outside clothes. It’s considered impolite. Changing into your train clothes is not only more comfortable, it’s part of the rhythm and respect of the journey.
This is what you see as you come into Ulaanbaatar on the Trans-Mongolian railway. Look at the variety of housing. Mongolian laws allow every Mongolian 0,7 hectares of land. However this must be fenced in if it is to be legal and if the owner is to be allowed to send his children to school. What he does within his 0,7 hectares is up to him. There are very few planning restrictions so he can keep his animals, set up a small business, fill the space with gers, build a luxury house.Words and image by our guest Lynn McCaw
Top Tip – Security
Start by knowing what to expect from your carriage layout—this helps not just with comfort, but also with security.
Spalny Vagon – These are 2-berth compartments and often referred to as 1st class. Ideal if you’re looking for privacy and a quieter experience.
Kupé – 4-berth compartments, usually called 2nd class. These are the most popular with both locals and travellers, offering a balance of comfort and cost.
Platskartny – Open-plan dormitory-style cars, often described as 3rd class. They’re budget-friendly and social, but come with less privacy.
The local Sainshand to Erdenet train captured by our guest Séverine Baptiste-Blanchart
I’ve (Jess) travelled solo from Hong Kong through to Moscow and St Petersburg—twice. Both times I used a mix of second class (kupé) and platskartny. Although the compartments are mixed gender, I felt safe throughout.
If you ever find yourself in a compartment where you feel uncomfortable, speak to the carriage attendant (provodnik or provodnitsa). They’re usually helpful and may be able to move you to a different berth.
As with any journey, use your common sense. Keep your valuables close—ideally in a money belt or small bag you can sleep with. And no, putting your passport or phone under your pillow doesn’t count! Larger bags can be tucked under the lower bunk or strapped to the luggage rack above. Most passengers are honest, but a little vigilance goes a long way.
‘As you pass through the Chinese province of Inner Mongolia (which as the name implies used to be part of greater Mongolia) the land flattens and the vegetation becomes sparse and dry and you begin to see the occasional ger and some livestock herds. This is the start of the Gobi Desert which stretches across the southern third of Mongolia. Once you are across the border you are into the Mongolian Gobi. This part of the Gobi is not the “desert” of our expectations. There are no sand dunes. Just the elemental emptiness of rock, wide blue sky, burning sun, widely spaced tufts of scrubby, harsh grass on the rough pebbly ground. Since the route of the train and the road are the main means communication in south-eastern Mongolia, following the ancient trade routes across Asia to Europe, there are occasional communities at which the train stops, featuring Soviet-era station buildings and Soviet-Siberian-style houses. There are also one or two vast brightly lit mining and industrial complexes. As you get closer to Ulaanbaatar the landscape becomes more rolling hills and green pasture land. Gers and livestock herds become more frequent.’ Words and image by our guest Lynn McCaw
Need Help Booking?
If you’re looking for guidance on how to book a trip on the Trans-Mongolian, pretty much everything you could possibly need to know has been written by The Man in Seat 61—a brilliant resource we highly recommend.
And if you’re planning to spend some time in Mongolia between train legs, take a look at our Trans-Mongolian train extensions webpage for inspiration on how to make the most of your stopover.
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