On The Road Updates – Rock & Roll In Ondorkhan
Our ‘On The Road Updates’ capture memorable moments from previous tours we have run. This one takes us to Ondorkhan, the provincial capital of Khentii Aimag in Mongolia’s north-east, during our Landscapes of the East experience small group experience.
Mongolia’s north-east is steeped in the history of Chinggis Khan. According to the Secret History of the Mongols, he was born in Khentii Province at the headwaters of the Onon and Kherlen rivers, near the border of modern Mongolia and Siberia. The legend describes the Mongols as originating from the mountain forest when a Blue-Grey Wolf mated with a Red Doe. In 2014, Ondorkhaan was renamed Chinggis in honor of the great leader who hailed from Khentii Aimag.
Is Ondorkhan highlighted as a must-see destination by guidebooks? Not necessarily. However, it is a vibrant town offering a chance to enjoy a hot shower and reconnect to the Western world via Wi-Fi (when it’s working!). The town also boasts the excellent Ethnography Museum, housed in the 18th-century home of Tsetsen Khaan, a Mongol prince who governed eastern Mongolia during the Manchu reign. You can also stroll along the Kherlen River – the longest river of the eastern Daurian Steppe and the most remote source of the Amur River, which drains into the Pacific Ocean. The Kherlen River starts in the alpine zone of the Khentii Mountain range and runs 1,250 kilometers through cedar-pine forests, forest steppes, and vast Eastern steppes – all regions where Chinggis Khan grew up.
On this particular Saturday night, we found ourselves in Ondorkhan. It might not be on everyone’s must-see list of Mongolia, but it provided shelter from an ever-increasing bitter wind and offered a contrast to life on the open steppe and in Ulaanbaatar. Although there’s not a lot to do in the evenings, we went for a stroll, heading to the town’s central square. This gathering spot was popular among locals of all ages who came to enjoy the fresh air and socializs. Spending time here in the evening was particularly rewarding; I found myself engaged in conversation with local students eager to practice their English or simply curious to interact with an international traveller.
We celebrated our last night on the east tour with dinner at the ‘Och’ restaurant, a local recommendation from a delightful lady practicing her English. The evening culminated in a few hours of karaoke. The singing was abysmal (except for Turuu, who always sings well), but for a couple of hours, it was ‘rock and roll’ in Ondorkhan, complete with dancing on the disco floor of the restaurant (don’t worry, we were the only patrons).
We departed early in the morning for Ulaanbaatar. Despite traveling back on ‘Route One’ (also known as the Millennium Highway, Mongolia’s main road connecting eastern aimags to UB and those in the west), we saw more birds of prey than vehicles.
Traveling through Mongolia is about more than just reaching your destination; it’s about embracing the journey, the landscapes, the people who call them home, and the moments of reflection along the way. If you would like to journey with us, take a look at the range of experiences we offer.
Jess @ Eternal Landscapes
