On The Road – Almost Full Moons & Howling Wolves
Our ‘On The Road Updates’ are short, evocative memories from some of the previous tours we have run.. This one takes you to Khentii Aimag in Mongolia’s northeast, the homeland of Chinggis Khan. During our Landscapes of the East small group experience, we journeyed through the territories of the culturally rich and traditional Buriat communities, a minority ethnic group in Mongolia. We had just left the community of Binder and were en route to Dadal, where we planned to camp for a few nights, enjoying the public shower house and feasting on homemade (but shop-bought) Buriat bread and ‘khaliartai khuushuur’ – both Buriat specialties.
We stopped for a picnic lunch along the banks of the Onon River, about 80km from Dadal. As I wrote this memory, we relished the quiet moment and the stunning scenery around us.
The previous evening, we had camped alongside Öglögchiin Kherem (Almsgiver’s Wall), a 3.2km structure dating from the 8th to 10th centuries. Nearby, over 60 graves have been discovered on what is known as the Almsgiver’s Castle, thought to be a royal graveyard. The labor required to construct the wall suggests its historical significance, with radiocarbon dating indicating its continued use by Mongol tribes in the 12th and 13th centuries. There’s an unproven but intriguing theory that this site may include the final resting place of Chinggis Khan, although this remains hotly debated.
As we sat around our small campfire, we discussed those who had come before us, such as the Khitad and the Mongols, pondering who built the wall and why. The almost September full moon illuminated our camp as we prepared our last mug of tea for the day. Suddenly, we heard the howling of wolves echoing from the opposite forested hillside.
Wolves use howling as a form of communication, possibly prior to hunting or to defend their territory. We couldn’t be sure, but sitting there under the moonlight by a 1,000-year-old wall, we felt privileged to be in such a magical and historic place.
(Among all the wolves’ different calls, howling is the only one that works over great distances. Its low pitch and long duration are well-suited for transmission in forests and across the steppe or tundra. Unique features of each individual’s howl allow wolves to identify each other.)
Traveling through Mongolia is about more than just reaching your destination; it’s about embracing the journey, the landscapes, the people who call them home, and the moments of reflection along the way. If you would like to journey with us, take a look at the range of experiences we offer.
Jess @ Eternal Landscapes
