A Cultural Guide to Mongolia’s Tsaatan Reindeer Herders
Image: EL guest Kairi Aun
Mongolia’s Tsaatan reindeer herders live in the far north of Mongolia, within the Darkhad Depression. This area is one of three parallel rift valleys formed by the Baikal Rift System. The depression features a broad expanse of open steppe and low forested hills. Once the site of a large lake, it remains a significant wetland area. This vast region, covering several thousand square kilometres, is classified as taiga (or boreal forest) and is situated within the Shishged River watershed of the Altai-Sayan mountains, the largest mountain range in southern Siberia. It serves as the home range for the world’s southernmost indigenous reindeer population and their herders, the Tsaatan.
Mongolia’s Tsaatan reindeer herders are Mongolia’s smallest ethnic minority – a community of nomadic reindeer herders with strong shamanist beliefs. Originally from Tuva in Siberia, they have historically inhabited the border region of Russia and Mongolia. Ethnically, the community identifies as Dukha, but their lifestyle as reindeer herders earned them the Mongolian name Tsaatan, which means roughly ‘with reindeer.’
Image: EL guest Enya Dunn-Trethowan
Visiting Mongolia’s Tsaatan Reindeer Herders: Guidelines and Considerations
Remote and Inaccessible Location
- The Tsaatan live in one of the most remote and inaccessible areas of Mongolia. Plan your trip carefully, allowing ample time for the journey. Be prepared to face challenges similar to those experienced by the Tsaatan, as there is no easy or quick way to get there. Flexibility, adaptability, and a willingness to step outside your comfort zone are essential.
Timing Your Visit
- Although traditions have evolved significantly, it is still preferred that visitors avoid the Tsaatan during the spring, particularly in April and early May, when reindeer give birth. The Tsaatan believe that the presence of strangers during this period disrupts the spiritual relationship between nature and the reindeer, potentially causing the young reindeer to die. Such a loss is detrimental to the Tsaatan’s lifestyle and traditions.
Modern People with Ancient Traditions
- Understand that while the Tsaatan way of life is ancient, they are modern people, not an undiscovered tribe. They face similar issues to those we do, such as access to healthcare. They also use modern conveniences like cars, phones, shortwave radios, and solar panels to power televisions.
Respecting Their Way of Life
- Do not attempt to change the Tsaatan or their lifestyle for your own benefit or comfort. Ensure your visit benefits the community financially and culturally. Be open to all experiences and appreciate their way of life, regardless of the conditions.
Supporting Their Fragile Way of Life
- Hosting international travelers helps the Tsaatan sustain their fragile way of life. Pay for the services you receive and consider purchasing carvings or other items if offered.
Respecting the Environment
- The taiga is a fragile environment. Consider the size of your travel group; for example, EL trips typically consist of four to six travelers. Also consider the length of time you are planning on staying with the Tsaatan – do not overstay your welcome.
Photography Etiquette
- Not all Tsaatan or their family members may want their photographs taken. Please respect their wishes and refer to our Responsible Photography guide.
Image: EL guest Kairi Aun
Immerse Yourself In The Life Of Mongolia’s Tsaatan
We arranged for photographer Kertu Saarits to live alongside and document the lives of Mongolia’s Tsaatan reindeer herders. This is her film of the journey.
Exploring The Culture Of Mongolia’s Tsaatan Reindeer Herders
Image: EL guest Kairi Aun
Mongolia’s reindeer herders, the world’s southernmost reindeer herding community, reside in two distinct communities in the boreal forest (taiga) north of Tsagaannuur sum in Khovsgol Province, far northern Mongolia. These two communities are known as East Taiga and West Taiga.
The Tsaatan originate from Tuva in southern Siberia. In 1921, Tuva became an independent satellite of the Soviet Union, allowing the Tsaatan to move their reindeer between Tuva and Mongolia. However, in 1944, Tuva was incorporated into the Soviet Union, and the border with Mongolia was closed. This forced the Tsaatan to sever ties with Tuva and settle permanently in Mongolia. Those who entered Mongolia from the northeast settled in the East Taiga, while those from the southeast settled in the West Taiga. Despite the geographical distinction, the two groups maintain strong kinship ties and are part of the same broader community.
Map Of Protected Areas Of Khovsgol Province highlighting the location of the East and West Taiga. Image: Changing Taiga
Image: EL guest Kairi Aun
The Tsaatan have a deep kinship with their reindeer, often considering them part of the family. These domesticated herds are crucial to their basic needs, providing milk for food, skins for clothing and boots, and antlers for carved handicrafts sold for income.
Reindeer are also essential for transportation. Male reindeer are used as pack and riding animals during seasonal migrations, for hunting, and for collecting firewood. A reindeer is only slaughtered for meat when it is too old for breeding or transportation.
Image: EL guest Kairi Aun
Image: EL guest Enya Dunn-Trethowan
The Tsaatan also depend on the forest’s resources, hunting wild game and gathering pine nuts, berries, and mushrooms. Besides their practical uses, reindeer play a central role in the Tsaatan’s cultural and spiritual traditions. They feed on lichen, sedges, and grasses, which provide their nutrition.
Image: EL guest Kairi Aun
The herding cycle of the Tsaatan is divided into four main seasons, with community members moving seasonally with their reindeer within the taiga. Their migration pattern ensures that the reindeer have adequate access to lichen, sedges, grasses, and moss, and is influenced by weather and climate. Typically, the Tsaatan spend summers in the high valleys and winters in the more sheltered taiga forest.
Although the Tsaatan practice a modern form of nomadism, some members move to the Tsagaannuur district center during the school term, enabling their children to attend school while families without children stay in the taiga to tend to the reindeer.
The Tsaatan live in canvas tents known as ortz, similar to teepees, although some families stay in permanent wooden houses during the winter. During the summer months, families often set up guest ortz for international travelers. This accommodation is basic, reflecting the Tsaatan’s way of life. Visitors should not attempt to change the Tsaatan or their way of life for personal comfort. The taiga is not a tourist camp but the home of a thriving community within a sensitive ecosystem. If you seek entertainment or luxurious accommodations, the taiga is not the place for you.
The Tsaatan live in canvas tents known as ortz – a form of a teepee although some families stay in permanent wooden houses in their winter pasture area. Image: EL guest Kairi Aun
These are ‘ovoos’—sacred Mongolian shrines. Thirteen of these shrines (one large and twelve small) mark the southern entrance to the Darkhad Depression north of the Beltes River. The twelve smaller ovoos represent the animals of the Mongolian calendar: mouse, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, sheep, monkey, rooster, dog, and pig. According to tradition, people entering the Darkhad Depression circumambulate the large ovoo and pray at the ovoo representing the year they were born.
The Tsaatan consider their home landscape spiritual and sacred, following a unique shamanistic tradition combined with Tengerism and animism. They honor and respect the earth, sky, and the spirits of the reindeer, the landscape, and their ancestors. As a result, some areas are off-limits to visitors, such as those believed to be inhabited by dangerous spirits, while other areas have specific rules associated with them.
Members of the Tsaatan community include shamans, who provide advice, healing, and communication with spirits, ancestors, and nature. Shamans perform ceremonies for healing or spiritual purposes on specific days in the calendar.
Learn more about the culture, heritage and way of life of the Tsaatan as well as the challenges they face from these links:
- Google Arts & Crafts put the photography of Angelo Chiacchio online and you can see it here – https://artsandculture.google.com/story/tsaatan-people-ephemera-documentary/IgXhoG9iwsTXAQ?hl=en
- Changing Taiga is a publication that addresses the current state of reindeer husbandry in northern Mongolia – https://www.unep.org/resources/report/changing-taiga-challenges-mongolias-reindeer-herders
- The Conversation discusses how conservation policies threaten the reindeer herders in Mongolia – https://theconversation.com/conservation-policies-threaten-indigenous-reindeer-herders-in-mongolia-121729
