Meeting Halmira – Olgii, Western Mongolia
This was a chance encounter … one of the Kazakh eagle hunters we work in long-term local community partnership with in Olgii, Western Mongolia told us to get in touch with Halmira. So we did. And what a woman.
Halmira was widowed when her youngest child was just two. A mother of five, Halmira survived financially by creating traditional Kazakh embroidery. However, apart from local sales, she has never really had an outlet for her remarkable skill … until now.
Behind each experience is always a bigger story …
We’re more than just a standard tour company focusing on profit. We look to make sure our work benefits the local people and communities of Mongolia as much as it benefits our guests and us as a business. We focus on creating local community partnerships that offer long-term support to the people we work with countrywide and that also allow us to showcase the diversity of skills and knowledge of Mongolian’s in the 21st Century.
Our friendships with the local people of Mongolia are genuine friendships – forged over time (no point in rushing!), mainly with tea and sometimes with vodka. We go out and meet people. We get to know them – to learn about their lives and their needs – without being invasive. These are real people with real lives to lead.
We don’t ask them to change their daily schedule or to put on an ‘act’. We know the stresses and the strains they face. We know their strengths and weakness. We know their likes and dislikes.They are much as part of our team and the EL family as we are.
And having shared the tea we look at ways we can incorporate their skills and knowledge into our experiences … encouraging their own sense of enterprise, as well as local Mongolian customs and culture. And so Halmira now offers embroidery lessons to our guests in her home in Olgii, Western Mongolia.
With Halmira, her home is her workshop. Self-taught, Halmira uses her own motifs as well as more traditional designs for the Kazakh embroidery and wall hangings she hand makes. She works freehand but uses hand made stencils (Halmira uses flour for the outline).
Halmira makes tus kiiz – the traditional Kazakh wall hangings – each one being a unique creation. Cotton fabric is divided into sections and each section filled in with a pattern drawn using the stencil (often with flour). A section of the fabric is then stretched taut, sewn onto a metal (or wooden) frame and embroidered (using a chain stitch) with a hooked needle. The patterns are often arranged to mirror one another.
What you cannot see on this image is every single stitch …
She also makes stitched, colourful felt carpets (shyrdak) as well as decorated reed panels (chii) although she does also use wheat straw as well as the reeds.
Step inside Halmira’s home and one of your first impressions will be the warmth and colour of the woven carpets, textiles and embroidery work that decorate the interior. But it will also be the genuine warmth and kindness of Halmira that will leave a lasting impression.
We typically have 8-10 EL guests attending the autumn eagle festival held in western Mongolia and we decided to provide our guests with a base and created our EL festival ger. It means there’s somewhere to come and warm up if the day is cold as there’s always hot drinks available. What’s lovely is that the Kazakh eagle hunters we work in long-term local community partnership with like to come and spend the day in the ger – it feels like home to them. All the embroidery that decorates the ger has been hand made by Halmira. We also rent the ger from her so that she benefits financially from our use.
Jess @ Eternal Landscapes