Meeting Halmira – Olgii, Western Mongolia

Last updated 8 months ago by Jessica Brooks | Published: March 15, 2019

Meeting Halmira – Olgii, Western Mongolia

Our encounter with Halmira was serendipitous. Bashakhan, a Mongol Kazakh eagle hunter and one of our long-term community partners in Bayan Olgii, Mongolia’s westernmost province, recommended we connect with her. So, we did.

Halmira, a Mongol Kazakh, became a widow when her youngest child was just two. A mother of five, she supported her family by creating traditional Kazakh embroidery. Despite her exceptional skill, she had limited opportunities for sales beyond her local area. We decided to help her expand her reach and support her craft.

Kazakh Embroidery

Embroidery is a traditional element of Kazakh folk art and reflects the rich cultural heritage of the Kazakhs. It is believed that embroidery was used

‘to “endow” clothing and household items with beauty, recognition, status, also protective function.’

Keste: Kazakhstan embroidery that celebrates nature, Garland Magazine

This intricate art form employs multi-colored threads to craft geometric patterns, floral and zoomorphic motifs, and symbolic designs on various textiles, such as clothing and bags. Many Kazakh needlework patterns are imbued with cosmogonic and astral symbolism. As with embroidery worldwide, each design carries deep meaning and symbolism, with every embroidered piece telling a story often passed down through generations. This practice holds deep cultural significance, serving not only as a source of pride but also as a means of preserving the country’s unique identity and celebrating its nomadic history.

The high points of Kazakh embroidery include the wall hangings (tuskiiz), which serve as talismans for a person’s home, the distinctive patterns of felt carpets (shyrdak), and ceremonial clothing for both men and women, such as the robes known as shapan.

Meeting Halmira in Olgii, Western Mongolia

Halmira’s home serves as her workshop. Self-taught, she uses her own motifs and traditional designs to produce high-quality handmade Kazakh embroidery products such as bags, cushions, and wall hangings. She is a very creative free-form embroiderer but also uses hand-made stencils using flour for the outline. Additionally, she recycles old wall hangings into purses and bags.

Kazakh Wall Hangings: Tuskiiz

Halmira crafts tuskiiz, traditional Kazakh wall hangings, each a unique creation. Cotton fabric is divided into sections, with patterns drawn using flour stencils. The fabric is then stretched on a frame and embroidered using chain stitch with a hooked needle. The patterns often mirror each other, creating a harmonious design.

What you cannot see in this image is every single stitch …

She also creates stitched, colorful felt carpets (shyrdak) and decorated reed panels (chii), occasionally incorporating wheat straw alongside the reeds.

Stepping inside Halmira’s home, you are immediately struck by the warmth and vibrancy of the woven carpets, textiles, and embroidery work that adorn the interior. However, it is the genuine warmth and kindness of Halmira herself that will leave a lasting impression.

Our Philosophy and Partnership

We’re more than just a standard tour company focusing on profit or being number one on Tripadvisor. Outside of the free training and development programme we run for Mongolian women who go on to become our guides, we look to make sure our work benefits the local people and communities of Mongolia as much as it benefits our guests and us. We focus on creating local community partnerships that offer long-term support to the people we work with countrywide and that also allow us to showcase the diversity of Mongolian skills and knowledge in the 21st century.

Our friendships with the local people are genuine, built over time through tea, and sometimes vodka. They become as much a part of our team as we are. We meet people, learn about their lives, and understand their needs without being invasive. We don’t ask them to alter their schedules or put on an act. These are real people with real lives.

We incorporate their skills and knowledge into our experiences, encouraging their sense of enterprise and respecting local customs and culture. This philosophy led us to partner with Halmira, who now offers embroidery lessons to our guests in her home in Olgii.

Our Eagle Festival Ger in Olgii, Western Mongolia

We typically have 8-10 EL guests attending the autumn eagle festivals held in western Mongolia and we decided to provide our guests with a base and created our EL festival ger. It means there’s somewhere to come and warm up if the day is cold as there are always hot drinks available. What’s lovely is that the Kazakh eagle hunters we work in long-term local community partnership with like to come and spend the day in the ger – it feels like home to them. All the embroidery that decorates the ger has been hand-made by Halmira. We also rent the ger from her so that she benefits financially from our use.

What Else To Do In Olgii, Western Mongolia

Although most travellers are keen to get out in the rural areas, Olgii  – the capital town of the province – itself is a great place to spend time. Predominantly a Kazakh city, characterised by a prevalent Muslim influence that permeates various aspects of daily life, from street signs to clothing and cuisine. This cultural diversity contributes to the town’s unique atmosphere.

• Immerse yourself in local customs by visiting the bustling Tirlik Black Market, where you can explore and purchase locally crafted wool and embroidery items.
• Don’t miss the opportunity to take in the scenic vistas from Ulgii’s viewpoint, a popular spot frequented by local families.
• Consider paying a visit to the local museum, which offers a glimpse into the region’s rich history and heritage.
• Have lunch or dinner at either the Pamukkale Restaurant if you enjoy Turkish food or the Tsambagarav Restaurant if you’re looking to have a cold beer with your meal.
• Spend time in the Central Square, popular among locals of all ages who come to enjoy the fresh air and socialise. Spending time here in the evening is particularly rewarding; you might find yourself engaged in conversation with local students eager to practice their English or simply curious to interact with an international traveller.