Last updated 8 months ago by Jessica Brooks | Published: July 20, 2018
Allow us to introduce you to Khovsgol Nuur National Park, located in Khovsgol Province in northern Mongolia.
But first, a question. When you think of Mongolia, what comes to mind? Nomads, horses, wrestlers, Chinggis Khan, gers, wide-open steppes… and perhaps mutton?
What about a navy?
It may seem surprising that Mongolia, the second-largest landlocked nation after Kazakhstan and with the nearest port roughly 1,270 kilometers away, has a navy. But it does, in a way. This navy is based in Khatgal, a small community at the southern end of Khovsgol Nuur.
Meet Mongolia’s Navy – tugboat Sukhbaatar III – named after the Mongolian revolutionary leader
But more on this in a bit.
Khovsgol Nuur National Park, established in 1992, spans 11,800 square kilometers and encompasses the entire watershed of Lake Khovsgol. In 1997, an additional 189,000 hectares of mountain wilderness were designated as the Khoridol Saridag Strictly Protected Area. Situated where the vast Siberian forest converges with the Central Asian steppe, Khovsgol Nuur National Park seamlessly blends elements of both ecosystems, enhanced by its mountainous landscapes.
Biologists refer to areas where different habitats intersect as ecotones—places where a forest meets a meadow or a lake meets a shore. Khovsgol is an ecotone on a grand scale, resulting in a diverse array of habitats including wet meadows, shallow ponds, coniferous forests, steppe woodlands, open steppes, alpine meadows, high mountains, and the lake and lakeshore. Asian globeflowers, as beautifully captured by our guest Marian Herz, thrive within the larch forests and riverbank meadows of Khovsgol.
Probably the most famous aspect of the national park is the lake itself. Tour companies call it the “Blue Pearl” of Mongolia, but Mongolians refer to it as Dalai Ej, meaning “Mother Sea”—a much more fitting name.
Yes. It really can look like this. The water is clean, clear … and … let’s call it refreshing.
Khovsgol Nuur, located at an elevation of 1,645 meters, stretches 136 kilometers in length and holds roughly 70% of Mongolia’s fresh water. It is considered the younger sister to Siberia’s Lake Baikal, being part of the same Rift System. On clear days, you can stand on the shoreline and see the snowcapped Sayan Mountains, marking the border with Siberia. The highest point in the Khovsgol watershed is Munkh Saridag at 3,491 meters in the Sayan Mountains, offering breathtaking views of the lake, as captured by our trip assistant Pujee.
Although Khovsgol Nuur has ninety-six tributary streams flowing into it, most of its watercourses flow strongly only during rainy periods and are often dry otherwise. Along the lake’s western shore, there is no permanent stream north of Khar Us mineral springs. The area surrounding Khovsgol Nuur is characterized by permafrost, a frozen sublayer of soil or rock that occurs at varying depths and thicknesses throughout the national park.
Many Western companies now advertise “exclusive” luxury camps on the east shore of Khovsgol Nuur, away from holidaying Mongolians. However, Khovsgol Nuur holds deep spiritual significance for Mongolians, making it a popular destination. Wouldn’t you want to visit if you spent most of the year in Ulaanbaatar or the Gobi Desert, especially with easy access via asphalt road?
And you know what? We enjoy holidaying Mongolians. They often invite you to join their family celebrations, practice their English, and show genuine interest in where you’re from and what you do. They offer a unique perspective, reminding us that Mongolia is not just about nomads, wrestlers, and horses.
Another reason we prefer the west shore is the opportunity to explore the Khoridol Saridag Mountains (see further down the post). With a bit of effort, you can reach the 2,300-meter Chuchee Uul and enjoy its remarkable view.
Visit Mongolia and you’ll get used to seeing these piles of stones. It’s an ovoo – a shamanistic construction erected by local families and travellers to show gratitude and respect and to honour the spirits of the surrounding land.
Additionally, the lagoons on the western side of Khovsgol Nuur are a unique feature. Formed by the process of longshore drift, the lake waves pound the shoreline but maintain a series of gravel bars. These gravel bars act as protective barriers for the lagoons, providing a safe haven for many water birds during the breeding season and migration.
Due to the impacts of the climate emergency, including rising temperatures, Khovsgol Nuur National Park is experiencing an increased frequency and intensity of droughts and storms, as well as other climate threats. Increased livestock grazing and tourism (both domestic and international) have led to damage to vegetation and pastures.
While most of the lake water remains unpolluted with near-pristine quality, it is highly sensitive to pollution. The rise in tourism and domestic use has resulted in fragments and films of consumer plastics, such as plastic bottles, fishing gear, and plastic bags, being found in the lake. To combat this, we collaborate with the ecoDEvshilt NGO, a local organization dedicated to promoting waste reduction, sorting at the source, and recycling, showcasing its vital role in preserving the pristine nature of Khovsgol.
Herding households are the most impacted by climate change, making their already fragile way of life even more precarious. However, sustainably managed tourism can help strengthen the resilience of Khovsgol’s herding community through income diversification. This is why we also partner with the Sarlagin Saikhan Khishig Cooperative, incorporating their efforts and the work of the families they support into some of our Khovsgol experiences. For instance, the Khovsgol Dairy Project, part of the cooperative, provides an outlet for herders to sell their surplus dairy products, offering additional income and an economic buffer. On certain Khovsgol experiences that we offer, you will be hosted by families involved in the Khovsgol Dairy Project.
Our Khovsgol treks are led by Basaanchuluu (Bambakh) – a modern ‘malchin’ (herder). He’s a member of the Darkhad ethnic group and has lived in the Khovsgol region his whole life. Like most herders in the area, Bambakh has a home within the town of Khatgal itself and this is where you will stay as guests of Bambakh – in his wooden house within the hasha – a typical fenced compound that belongs to each extended family. We work in long-term local community partnership with Bambakh for all our Khovsgol treks and have been working alongside him since 2006. He’s our go-to man at Khovsgol and his knowledge of the area is as big as his personality. You will often meet with his brother Lokh and his sister Gerel as well.
The Khoridol Saridag Mountains, a strictly protected area, primarily consist of uplifted dolomite. This 150 km-long mountain range runs between the western shore of Khovsgol Nuur and the Darkhad Depression. The contrast between the barren, arid upland areas and the lush, rich alpine meadows below creates a landscape of striking beauty. With many peaks close to or exceeding 3,000 meters, the Khoridol Saridag Mountains offer a breathtaking backdrop to the diverse habitats of Khovsgol Nuur National Park.
The view from one of our trekking routes through the Khoridol Saridag Mountains. Doesn’t it make you want to be there?!
Many companies offer trips through Jigleg Davaa and up to Renchinlumbe, on the edge of the Darkhad Depression (a topic for a different blog post). However, there are numerous trekking routes within the Khoridol Saridag Mountains, many of which follow the migration paths of local herders. These are the routes we prefer, as we rarely encounter other travelers—just the passing local herders, providing an authentic and serene experience.
Image: EL guest Deborah Furrer
This small rural community resembles many of Mongolia’s small rural towns—dusty around the edges. However, dig a little deeper, and you’ll discover a vibrant local community, especially during Naadam, typically held around July 11th and 12th. There’s even a coffee shop! There’s even a coffee shop!
The colourful roofs are typical of rural Mongolian communities
You’ll also find the remains of the Mongolian Navy here.
In the 1930s, the Mongolian Navy was revived under the auspices of the Soviet Union, receiving one boat, the Sukhbaatar, to patrol Lake Khovsgol. The ship was named after Damdiny Sukhbaatar, the Mongolian revolutionary leader who secured independence from China in 1921.
The original Sukhbaatar eventually sank, as did its successor, Sukhbaatar II. However, Sukhbaatar III is still afloat. In 1997, the Mongolian government privatized its navy, so now Sukhbaatar III supplements its income by hauling freight, mainly visitors, across the lake.
When the lake is not frozen, of course.
Turuu (my business partner) and our driver Bataa on the frozen ice surfaces of Khovsgol Nuur in Northern Mongolia. As someone said, you’ve got the ice. Where’s the gin and tonic?!
And don’t think you can only visit Khovsgol in the summer. Consider the Ice Festival that takes place in early March. As well as winter ice games (horse-sledge races, ice-skating, ice ankle bones) there is also a cultural element with members of the Tsaatan (Mongolia’s ethnic reindeer herders) coming down from the taiga to join with the local residents. Throughout the event, it’s the ice that dominates – not just the artistic ice sculptures but the frozen lake itself with its deep cobalt cracks and ice waves caused by the ever-shifting wind patterns.
And if you’re wondering what it is like to spend an extended amount of time on the ice, we recently helped two French adventurers in their 30-day crossing of the frozen lake – https://www.eternal-landscapes.co.uk/mongolia-winter-ice-expedition/
Exploring the frozen landscapes of Khovsgol Nuur on our 3-day horse sleigh expedition during our Khovsgol Ice Festival, Mongolian winter tour. You feel completely free.
The Ice Festival plays an important part in the winter calendar of the local people. Don’t get caught up in notions of authenticity—the festivals feature a lot of local involvement and always draw local Mongolian spectators as well as Westerners. The locals are always enthusiastic participants.
If the idea of exploring these landscapes appeals to you, why not take a quick look at our Mongolia small group tours page? We offer both summer and winter departures to Khovsgol Nuur National Park. We can also create Mongolia tailor-made tours that include Khovsgol Nuur National Park. Get in touch for inspiration!
Jess @ Eternal Landscapes