Allow us to introduce you to Khovsgol Nuur National Park, located in Khovsgol Province in northern Mongolia.
But first, a question. When you think of Mongolia, what comes to mind? Nomads, horses, wrestlers, Chinggis Khan, gers, wide-open steppes… and perhaps mutton?
What about a navy?
It may seem surprising that Mongolia, the second-largest landlocked nation after Kazakhstan and with the nearest port roughly 1,270 kilometers away, has a navy. But it does, in a way. This navy is based in Khatgal, a small community at the southern end of Khovsgol Nuur.
But more on this in a bit.
An Ecological Crossroads
Khovsgol Nuur National Park, established in 1992, spans 11,800 square kilometers and encompasses the entire watershed of Lake Khovsgol. In 1997, an additional 189,000 hectares of mountain wilderness were designated as the Khoridol Saridag Strictly Protected Area. Situated where the vast Siberian forest converges with the Central Asian steppe, Khovsgol Nuur National Park seamlessly blends elements of both ecosystems, enhanced by its mountainous landscapes.
Biologists refer to areas where different habitats intersect as ecotones—places where a forest meets a meadow or a lake meets a shore. Khovsgol is an ecotone on a grand scale, resulting in a diverse array of habitats including wet meadows, shallow ponds, coniferous forests, steppe woodlands, open steppes, alpine meadows, high mountains, and the lake and lakeshore. Asian globeflowers, as beautifully captured by our guest Marian Herz, thrive within the larch forests and riverbank meadows of Khovsgol.
The Blue Pearl – Or, More Rightly, Mother Sea
Probably the most famous aspect of the national park is the lake itself. Tour companies call it the “Blue Pearl” of Mongolia, but Mongolians refer to it as Dalai Ej, meaning “Mother Sea”—a much more fitting name.
Khovsgol Nuur, located at an elevation of 1,645 meters, stretches 136 kilometers in length and holds roughly 70% of Mongolia’s fresh water. It is considered the younger sister to Siberia’s Lake Baikal, being part of the same Rift System. On clear days, you can stand on the shoreline and see the snowcapped Sayan Mountains, marking the border with Siberia. The highest point in the Khovsgol watershed is Munkh Saridag at 3,491 meters in the Sayan Mountains, offering breathtaking views of the lake, as captured by our trip assistant Pujee.
Although Khovsgol Nuur has ninety-six tributary streams flowing into it, most of its watercourses flow strongly only during rainy periods and are often dry otherwise. Along the lake’s western shore, there is no permanent stream north of Khar Us mineral springs. The area surrounding Khovsgol Nuur is characterized by permafrost, a frozen sublayer of soil or rock that occurs at varying depths and thicknesses throughout the national park.
East Shore Versus West Shore At Khovsgol Nuur National Park
Many Western companies now advertise “exclusive” luxury camps on the east shore of Khovsgol Nuur, away from holidaying Mongolians. However, Khovsgol Nuur holds deep spiritual significance for Mongolians, making it a popular destination. Wouldn’t you want to visit if you spent most of the year in Ulaanbaatar or the Gobi Desert, especially with easy access via asphalt road?
And you know what? We enjoy holidaying Mongolians. They often invite you to join their family celebrations, practice their English, and show genuine interest in where you’re from and what you do. They offer a unique perspective, reminding us that Mongolia is not just about nomads, wrestlers, and horses.
Another reason we prefer the west shore is the opportunity to explore the Khoridol Saridag Mountains. With a bit of effort, you can reach the 2,300-meter Chuchee Uul and enjoy its remarkable view.
Additionally, the lagoons on the western side of Khovsgol Nuur are a unique feature. Formed by the process of longshore drift, the lake waves pound the shoreline but maintain a series of gravel bars. These gravel bars act as protective barriers for the lagoons, providing a safe haven for many water birds during the breeding season and migration.
A Fragile Ecosystem Under Threat
Due to the impacts of the climate emergency, including rising temperatures, Khovsgol Nuur National Park is experiencing an increased frequency and intensity of droughts and storms, as well as other climate threats. Increased livestock grazing and tourism (both domestic and international) have led to damage to vegetation and pastures.
While most of the lake water remains unpolluted with near-pristine quality, it is highly sensitive to pollution. The rise in tourism and domestic use has resulted in fragments and films of consumer plastics, such as plastic bottles, fishing gear, and plastic bags, being found in the lake. To combat this, we collaborate with the ecoDEvshilt NGO, a local organization dedicated to promoting waste reduction, sorting at the source, and recycling, showcasing its vital role in preserving the pristine nature of Khovsgol.
Herding households are the most impacted by climate change, making their already fragile way of life even more precarious. However, sustainably managed tourism can help strengthen the resilience of Khovsgol’s herding community through income diversification. This is why we also partner with the Sarlagin Saikhan Khishig Cooperative, incorporating their efforts and the work of the families they support into some of our Khovsgol experiences. For instance, the Khovsgol Dairy Project, part of the cooperative, provides an outlet for herders to sell their surplus dairy products, offering additional income and an economic buffer. On certain Khovsgol experiences that we offer, you will be hosted by families involved in the Khovsgol Dairy Project.
The Khoridol Saridag Mountains: A Landscape of Contrast
The Khoridol Saridag Mountains, a strictly protected area, primarily consist of uplifted dolomite. This 150 km-long mountain range runs between the western shore of Khovsgol Nuur and the Darkhad Depression. The contrast between the barren, arid upland areas and the lush, rich alpine meadows below creates a landscape of striking beauty. With many peaks close to or exceeding 3,000 meters, the Khoridol Saridag Mountains offer a breathtaking backdrop to the diverse habitats of Khovsgol Nuur National Park.
Many companies offer trips through Jigleg Davaa and up to Renchinlumbe, on the edge of the Darkhad Depression (a topic for a different blog post). However, there are numerous trekking routes within the Khoridol Saridag Mountains, many of which follow the migration paths of local herders. These are the routes we prefer, as we rarely encounter other travellers—just the passing local herders, providing an authentic experience.
Khatgal: Life in the Local Community
The small rural community of Khatgal resembles many of Mongolia’s small rural towns—dusty around the edges. However, dig a little deeper, and you’ll discover a vibrant local community, especially during Naadam, typically held around July 11th and 12th. There’s even a coffee shop!
You’ll also find the remains of the Mongolian Navy here.
In the 1930s, the Mongolian Navy was revived under the auspices of the Soviet Union, receiving one boat, the Sukhbaatar, to patrol Lake Khovsgol. The ship was named after Damdiny Sukhbaatar, the Mongolian revolutionary leader who secured independence from China in 1921.
The original Sukhbaatar eventually sank, as did its successor, Sukhbaatar II. However, Sukhbaatar III is still afloat. In 1997, the Mongolian government privatized its navy, so now Sukhbaatar III supplements its income by hauling freight, mainly visitors, across the lake.
When the lake is not frozen, of course.
The Khovsgol Ice Festival
And don’t think you can only visit Khovsgol in the summer. Consider the Ice Festival that takes place in early March. Along with winter ice games such as horse-sledge races, ice-skating, and ice ankle bones, the festival features a cultural element with members of the Tsaatan, Mongolia’s ethnic reindeer herders, coming down from the taiga to join local residents. Throughout the event, it’s the ice that dominates—not just the artistic ice sculptures, but the frozen lake itself with its deep cobalt cracks and ice waves caused by the ever-shifting wind patterns.
If you’re curious about what it’s like to spend an extended amount of time on the ice, we recently assisted two French adventurers in their 30-day crossing of the frozen lake. You can read more about their journey here.
The Darkhad are an ethnic group of predominantly nomadic herders with a cultural identity and dialect distinct from the majority Khalkh Mongols. They live in the Khovsgol region, with their summer pastures located in the grasslands of the Darkhad valley. Many migrate through the Khoridol Saridag mountains to their winter camps near Khovsgol Nuur. In the winter months, the Darkhad use horse sleighs to travel over the frozen Khovsgol Lake. Why not consider joining us on our Khovsgol Horse Sleigh Expedition? Riding over the ice makes for a hauntingly beautiful adventure, and the expedition is timed to finish with the Ice Festival.
The Ice Festival plays an important part in the winter calendar of the local people. Don’t get caught up in notions of authenticity—the festivals feature a lot of local involvement and always draw local Mongolian spectators as well as Westerners. The locals are always enthusiastic participants.
Inspired? Join One of Our Khovsgol Experiences
If the idea of exploring these landscapes appeals to you, why not take a quick look at our Mongolia tours page linked below? We offer both summer and winter departures to Khovsgol Nuur National Park including tailor-made experiences that include Khovsgol Nuur National Park. Get in touch for inspiration!
Warmly, Jess@Eternal Landscapes
