Last updated 9 months ago by Jessica Brooks | Published: August 2, 2018
Located in Ovorkhangai Aimag in central Mongolia, Kharkhorin may not seem impressive at first glance. However, like many rural Mongolian towns, its outward appearance belies a rich history and vibrant community. Both stationary and nomadic populations have thrived here for centuries. Kharkhorin is a prime example of this resilience. Once the capital of the Mongol Empire and later a State Farm of the Order of the Golden Star during the Soviet Era, Kharkhorin is now part of Mongolia’s Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscapes UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The best place to start your visit is the excellent Kharkhorin Museum. Although small, it offers a well-curated presentation with clear and updated exhibits. These include the history of the Orkhon River Valley, archaeological research, and discovered artifacts. The museum also features a scale model of Kharkhorin when it was the capital of the Mongol Empire, known as Karakorum. Even if history isn’t your main interest, I highly recommend a visit, as the museum effectively brings the rich history of the area to life.
The construction of Karakorum was completed in 1235, establishing it as a fixed center of power and administration. The city was surrounded by earthen or mud walls with four gates, and within these walls, various quarters housed administrative buildings and residences for court civil servants, merchants, and traders. Other structures included treasuries and storage facilities for collecting tribute from across the empire, as well as markets and meeting areas. Additionally, large areas were dedicated to tented encampments.
Karakorum was likely the most religiously open and tolerant city in the world at that time, with houses of worship for Buddhists, Taoists, Muslims, and Christians. However, after the breakup of the Yuan Dynasty in 1368, Karakorum was destroyed by the subsequent armies of the Manchurian (Qing) Dynasty.
It is popularly mentioned by all the guides at the Erdene Zuu Monastery that the remains of Karakorum were used to build Erdene Zuu in the sixteenth century. The first temple of Erdene Zuu Khiid (One Hundred Treasures) was constructed in 1586. As you enter the monastery, on the left-hand side, you will see artifacts left over from the ancient capital.
Notice the massive wall (400m x 400m) surrounding the monastery, topped by stupas. There are 108 stupas encircling the monastery. The number 108 is symbolic in Buddhism, representing the qualities needed to achieve an enlightened mind.
In the 18th century, Erdene Zuu had around 62 temples, most of which were destroyed during the 1930s purges. The main working temple today is the Lavrin Sum, a Tibetan-style building. In the center of the monastery is a ger, replacing the Tsogchin Dugan, the main assembly hall building that was destroyed during the political purges. This small ger is where Mongolian people come to receive puja – a Buddhist blessing.
Image: Ovnigraphic/Shutterstock.com – https://www.eternal-landscapes.co.uk/tovkhon-khiid-monastery/
For something a little different, visit the phallic rock. As its name suggests, it is a large (60 cm!) statue of a penis pointing towards a small valley curiously named ‘Vaginal Slope.’ Said to have dual functions—serving as a reminder for monks to remain celibate and as a symbol of fertility and human life—it might not be a major highlight, but it certainly is well photographed!
The aim of this wonderful non-profit center is to preserve and propagate Mongolian calligraphy, which was inscribed in 2013 on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding. In addition, the center aims to be a window for other forms of art related to traditional Mongolian culture and to become a vector of economic development for one of Mongolia’s most important historical tourist destinations. By doing so, they hope to help reduce the tide of rural to urban migration.
The center, open year-round, relies on entrance fees and sales of artworks to cover its yearly operational costs. However, the true highlight is the public and private Mongolian calligraphy lessons that we can arrange for you at the center. These lessons are very affordable and contribute to the specialized workshops the center offers to local people, including inspiring art therapy workshops for individuals with mental or physical disabilities.
Learn more in our blog post about the center: https://www.eternal-landscapes.co.uk/get-creative-with-mongolian-calligraphy/
We suggest combining any visit to Kharkhorin with an extended stay in Mongolia’s Orkhon River Valley. Mongolia is an ancient land with a rich and varied history, offering only a glimpse into the flow of people and cultures that have shaped modern Mongolia. The Orkhon River Valley, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an ideal place to connect with this history. It represents the evolution of nomadic pastoral traditions in Mongolia and provides a rare slice of tangible Mongolian heritage. This area is rich in historical significance related to the Hunnu, the Turks, and the Mongol Empire, as well as the founding of Buddhism in Mongolia, leading to the region being called the cradle of Mongolian civilization.
In addition to longer trips, Kharkhorin makes for a perfect shorter exploration from Ulaanbaatar. For more ideas, visit the Mongolia Inspirations page on our Eternal Landscapes Mongolia website or exploe the range of experiences we can offer.
Jess @ Eternal Landscapes